Sammy Lock Right Install
Detailed Lock Right Install
1) First things first. Put on your favorite tunes at volume.
Jack up Sammy, support with jack stands and remove wheels.
Put down cardboard underneath and get tools out. Tools needed are:
3/8 and Ĺ inch impacts
10 mm line wrench
12, 14, 17 mm wrenches and sockets, 14 and 17 in both drives.12 and 14mm 3/8 drive swivel sockets would be nice too.
1Ē and 6Ē 3/8 drive extensions
spring loaded center punch
long blunt nose punch
dead blow plastic mallet
3 lb sledge
dial indicator with mag base. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! Donít attempt this install without it! (unless you like to live dangerously and are a true shade tree mechanic)
3/8 drive torque wrench. 17 lbs to 70 lbs at least
work bench, lots of clean rags, rubber gloves and GoJo
a way to clean parts, safety clean tank, spray can of brake clean or carb cleaner, air blow gun
Blue Lock Tight and Silicon Sealant THIS IS ALSO VERY IMPORTANT!
FSM (factory service manual) and this tutorial.
Beer (for after successful install)!
Take Care of PESKY FLY !! This guy just wonít leave me alone. WOW I
swatted him in mid air with my hand.
Mark drive shaft flange and the flange on the pinion shaft flange on the
diff. Take note of the dimple on the drive shaft. I marked the spline end too
but there should be a mark on the end of it. I'm not sure all this is necessary
but it doesn't hurt and I want to be sure that things go back the same in case
something in the end doesn't feel or sound right.
4) Remove 4 bolts on flange and remove drive shaft. You could bungi the shaft up out of the way but I chose to just get it out of the way completely.
Remove brake lines and E-Brake pins and drain oil. I read somewhere on
one of the forums to put a golf tee in the line. I did this. The problem with
this is my backing plate bumped into it and broke it off in the line. I tried
getting it out with a pick, no luck, just pushed it in further. I pumped the
brakes, no luck.I disconnected the brake line and blew it out with air. This
worked. I was sweating it for a moment. I donít recommend this approach. Take a
5/16Ē ID hose about 2Ē long and put a bolt in one end and slip the other over the
brake line ends. This will keep all your brake fluid from draining out of your
reservoir and keep any dirt out too.
Remove 4 17mm bolts that hold drums to hubs and remove drums
Remove 4 12 mm bolts hold that backing plate to axle housing. This is the
Remove axles being careful to not damage seals. I had to reinstall drums
and wheels with a only a couple of bolts to loosen the axle and bearing retainer
(backing plate). On one wheel I had to hit the rim with the 3 lb sledge to
loosen it. Be sure to put a block of wood on rim so as not to bend it. I didnít
have to hit it that hard, just a good swat.
Remove 12 mm bolts that hold your diff in and take out diff. I left in a
bolt in the top loose and had to put a jack under diff with a block of wood
under to loosen diff. DONíT RAISE IT UP TO MUCH! If it is stuck just put some
pressure on the nose and hit it with the dead blow mallet. Mine is 2 lbs.
Bring diff to bench and mark
everything with punch. This is the bearing caps, bearing adjusters, ring
gear to diff housing, ring gear to pinion orientation ( I lined up the flange
hole to the case and filed a small mark on the ring gear to make sure the pinion
gear and ring gear would go back in the same tooth.
Now that everything is marked, get out the dial indicators. Check the
backlash a bunch of times and rotate the ring gear and check it again. Do this
until you are sure you are getting repeated results. Hold the pinion tight and
rock the ring gear back and forth to get this measurement. This should be
between .004Ē and .006Ē. Mine was .0075Ē or .18mm. I will have to make this
tighter on my install.
12) Loosen but donít remove 4 17mm bolts on the bearing caps.
Remove 2 12mm bolts that hold the bearing adjuster stoppers that
locate the bearing adjuster and unscrew the bearing adjusters.
Count how many turns it takes to remove
these and take note. This is very important that they go back in the same number
of turns and in the clip in the same hole!. (unless you have the means
and tools to check for bearing preload, which I do not).This
is assuming your backlash was within tolerance. If it was not then you will need
to screw in and out these adjusters equally until you get the correct backlash
on your install. If it is loose then you need to screw in the ring gear side
adjuster one hole and loosen the opposite one hole. Each hole that you move the
adjuster is .002Ē or .05 mm of backlash movemement.
Remove bearing cap bolts and then the caps.
Now remove the diff case assembly from the carrier.
Remove the 8 bolts that hold the 2 diff case halves together and
remove top diff half.
Now you can see the side gears and spiders.
Remove side gear with thrust washer and mark it. Keep gear and
washer together. According to the Lock Right instructions this gear and the
other side gear will be installed in the opposite locations. Iím not sure why
Remove the 10 bolts that hold the ring gear on with your ĹĒ
20) One more thing that I did was to mark which holes have the long pin in and the short pin side as well as the orientation of the Pinion Joint (top, bottom, right and left sides).
Remove long pin that holds spiders in and remove spiders.
Remove 2 short pins, Pinion Joint (square block with holes in
it), last 2 spiders and side gear with thrust washer. Be sure to remove all 4
bevel washers that are behind spiders and keep side gear and washer together.
You wonít be using the spiders or the shafts again. New shafts came with my Lock
Remove the last side gear and washer. This is the set that will
go in last on the install.
24) Clean up everything. Scrape off sealant of differential faces too. OK YOU CAN HAVE ONE BEER NOW. BUT ONLY ONE! Although I did not. I think I quit again. We will see how long this lasts. Iím sure if someone brought over a Fat Tire I would drink it. I am out and deliberately didnít stock up before this tear down and this is the only car I have at this point. So this has to work. I do have my work step van but at 7mpg and 20í long I donít want to make it my daily driver.
25) Now to put it back together. Tom at www.Spidertrax.com told me to make sure I do a dry run first and check to make sure everything is loose before I put the springs in. Who am I to argue with the man. They are very close to me. Not sure if that is a good thing or not. LOL. They are very helpful and extremely knowledgeable. I am a total novice when it comes to these things. I am more familiar with VW powered buggies, rails and baja bugs which I have built many a racer. This is my first 4x4 toy.
Remember when I said to make note of the side gear first removed.
Put that one in now with its mating washer.
Put in Lock Right drive member and supplied spacer.
Put in Pinion Joint and insert long pin. Don't force it
through. If it doesn't go in easily then you may not have it marked correctly.
Try either putting the long pin in other hole or rotate the block and or flip it
over. Which ever works. If it is still tight or won't go in then you may have an
issue with your supplied spacer from Lock Right. Take out the spacer and retry.
If that works then you have a stack issue. Something is wrong and you need to
figure it out.
Put in short pins.
Install the last drive member, washer and side gear and washer
that was last removed in the disassembly.
Put top of diff case on and install bolts. No need to torque just
yet. Just run in tight with the impact.
Turn over diff case. Put finger in side gear and pull up. Measure
this movement with dial indicator. It should be around .012Ē
If it is loose then turn it back over and remove the 8 bolts and
split the case.
Remove side gear, and Lock Right drive member.
Take supplied springs and put small spring inside the larger
spring. They should be the same height and put them in the large holes in the
drive member that is still in the case. There is 2 sets in each drive member.
They should be flush with the top. Be sure not to get the springs crossed inside. They should be
both the same height. If they are, fill them with light grease.
Put in 2 pins
Now do the same with the other drive member. Check carefully for
Turn upside down and see if the springs stay in place. They must not move. Carefully slide drive member down inside case. Pins touch springs in opposing members. Be careful again so as not to have springs or pins fall out. Grease should hold them in fine. Just donít bump them to knock the springs loose.
38) Put supplied spacer in on top of Pinion Joint in the center of the drive member. Push drive member up and down to see if it is moving well.
Place side gear with its washer on top of drive member.
Put top of Case on with the eight bolts. Tighten these with
impact but not too tight yet. They get tighten to 27 lbs. to 32 lbs. I found it
easer to torque after ring gear is in place.
Make sure the ring gear bolts have no residual Lock Tight on
them. Degrease well.
Install ring gear. Turn over and install with 10 bolts. Tighten
them down close to 60 lbs with impact. The bolts will need BLUE LOCK TIGHT!
Donít lock tight them in just yet though unless you can hold the diff case and
torque the 8 bolts and the ring gear bolts in a timely manor. With the ring gear
on you can hold the case and torque the 8 bolt that hold the halves together to
27 lbs. to 32 lbs. It is still a bit hard to hold to do this but I managed buy
putting the ring gear on end and then tightening the 8 bolts.
If you can hold this assembly and torque the ring gear in great.
Remove the bolts and lock tight the bolts and torque to 58 to 65lbs. I could not
hold it easily so opted to lock tight them in later.
Now slide the bearing races on the case bearings and set the case
in the carrier. Be sure to put ring gear
in same place as it came out in relation to Pinion gear. Put the bearing
caps on with the 2 17mm bolts on each side. Hand tighten these ONLY! The FSM
says tighten them to 7 lbs. The outer races need to move inward easily when you
put the bearing adjusters in. This is where it got a bit tricky. I donít have a
way to measure the bearing preload and had to just do it by feel. The bearing
adjusters need to be put in the same number of turns as when they came out. This
is what I relied on mostly. I had to tighten my backlash buy one hole tighter on
the ring gear side. If you do this then you have to loosen the other side by the same
amount! This is so critical! Once you get this done, torque the bearing
cap bolts to 51 lbs. to 70 lbs and put the adjuster stopper in with the 12mm
bolts. (7 lbs. to 10 lbs.). I used my long punch to help me tighten the bearing
cap bolts. If I was doing more of these, I would make a fixture to hold the diff
After diff is in carrier and caps are on, I found I could remove
one bolt at a time that holds the ring gear on, put BLUE LOCK TIGHT on bolt and
torque it to 60 lbs. I rested the torque wrench on the adjuster bolt and was
able to get good leverage enough to torque it down. I know this seams a bit
weird but I was alone and couldnít hold the ring gear safely enough to torque it
46) Check backlash over and over again. It should all be turning nice a free now. Turn pinion gear and check for any binding and recheck backlash in a different spot.
47) You are ready to put it all back in the car now! It is dark now and getting cold so the pictures are not happening. Iím in a hurry to get this done. Sorry but I think you got it now.
48) Put a bead of silicone on clean housing. Install the diff in axle housing. Torque 12mm bolts to 13.5 lbs to 20 lbs. Do not put silicone in bolt holes. This will adversely affect torque for sure and could actually cause a hydraulicing effect and rip the treads out, although I would think this is rare and more of an issue with aluminum.
49) Grease the spline end of the drive shaft and slide the spline end into the shaft. Be sure to put it back so the marks line up. Bolt the flanges together with the 4 bolts, nuts, and washers. Again line up the marks that you put on during the removal step.
50) Put a bead of silicone on end of axle housing. Slide in axles being careful not to damage seals. Donít tighten the 4 12mm bolts just yet. Put the brake lines on once it gets close enough to do so. It makes it a bit easier before it is bolted tight. Tighten the 4 bolts now.
51) Put on your E brake cable with the pins and clips.
I install the Solo Bleeders on the front and rear at this point that I got
from Spidertrax. One man bleeders.
53) Put on the brake drums and tighten the 4 17mm bolts down.
54) PUT OIL IN! This is a must.
55) I guess you can now have a beer or (whatever). Remember you still have to test drive.
56) I then went to bleeding the brakes. I had some issues here. After pumping 2 pints of fluid through the system, and still had spongy brakes, I got a 12' piece 5/16" dia. clear vinyl hose and slipped it over the end of my rear Solo Bleeder and stuck the other end in the master cylinder resevoir. I then cracked open the bleeder and pumpted the crap out of it for several minuites, long after I saw no air coming through the hose. Then I went and to the front and did the same thing there too, starting with the passenger side. Once I got some pressure, I started the car and ran it in reverse, pumping the brakes. I did this to adjust the brakes. Be sure your car is well supported. Put your wheels on and lower off the stands.
56) TEST DRIVE and YOUR DONE! These thing will make all kinds of different clunks and you will have to adjust your driving style. There should be no other noises or growling sounds. Good luck and I hope I helped out.
If anyone has anything to add to
this please chime in. I am not perfect by any means and Iím sure I have missed
something. This is my first and only time to date. Now to tackle the front!
Contact me through my website with any issues and I will try to help. Links are
at the bottom of the page.
Special thanks to Tom at for his tips and assuring me that I could do this.
Also thanks to Ack at for pointing out that there is a mark on the end of the drive shaft spline already.
Thanks for reading this, KB
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